Friday, July 31, 2009

A wine opportunity wasted

There were a few moments at the recent Wine Bloggers’ Conference where I thought a few opportunities were wasted. I think, overall, the conference was a success, with bloggers indoctrinated with information and positive messages surrounding the Sonoma Wine County and the Napa Valley Vintners. However, on Saturday I was part of a group where the messaging went wrong.

After our visit to the CIA we all piled into buses to go visit different wineries. There were eight or nine buses and I was on bus #4. Some of my bus-mates were the Luscious Lush, Sharayray, the Beer Wench, WineHiker, El Jefe, Sonadora, Catie, The Texas Duo, and many others. We, uh… we were trouble.

We went to visit Cuvaison and it turns out that the winery has two tasting rooms. We of course went to the wrong one. An honest mistake and I know all about what happens when there are slight bumps in carefully ironed out plans for winery visits. Roll with the punches and all that.

So we arrive at the correct Cuvaison tasting room where we have a nice lunch with sandwiches and some of the wineries products. Cuvaison is working towards total environmental harmony. Yes, they are green and comply with sustainable practices, they recycle cork, they have solar panels, they process and recycle their own water, etc. and so forth… I know all of this because of the piece of paper they gave me and everyone else at the winery to take home. Let’s just hope it was on recycled paper…

Honestly though, I loved their electric hand-drier that I slipped my hands into and it blow-dried them from 100 angles.

The wines were pleasant. The Cuvaison Sauvignon Blanc 2008 had a bright lime/grapefruit beginning, a creamy round middle, with a bit of peppery jalapeño at the end. The Cuvaison Chardonnay 2007 was a little too tart for me. The Pinot Noir 2007 was tasty, smoky raspberry with a really interesting bit of brine that I found very appealing. Then the Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 was nice, with a rich cassis and cinnamon.


We arrived in the afternoon, after our trip to Cuvaison, to Staglin Family Vineyard. We were slightly tired of riding on the bus, a little antsy, and ready to taste some more great wine.

We met a few winery owners at the entrance to the winery at Staglin. It seemed to be cut into the side of the mountain, which allowed the room to be cooler with concrete walls. It was quite pleasant after a brief walk in the hot Napa sun. There was a long hardwood table along the center of the room, past fermenters and sitting directly before the barrel room of the winery, with library storage on either side. We sat down and began to listen to a discussion of the advantages and disadvantages of large and small wineries. Sue Parry from Parry Cellars spoke to us about being a small winery, hers being a total of 2 acres of vines large producing 200 cases a year and run by her and her husband. Staglin was represented by Sheri Staglin, CEO of Staglin Family Vineyards. Staglin produces about 5,000 cases a year. Pete Przybylinsky, the Senior Vice President of Sales and Strategy for Duckhorn Wine Company was there to talk to us about his winery, which produces a ton of cases a year. Then there was Russell Weis, General Manager/Sales and Marketing Silverado Vineyards, which produces ….



After about twenty minutes it became obvious to us that while we were discussing distribution practices, the issues of either renting or owning your own bottling and labeling machines, and the difficulties of balancing the management of the tasting room with running the back office, we were not going to taste any wine.

I must admit, at this point I became somewhat unprofessional. In fact, one could have rubbed the glaze on my eyes over a donut and served it as a tasty treat. And the group I had chosen to sit with did not make paying attention that much easier. We actually deteriorated to a massive amount of note passing on the back of napkins, the contents of which could give Jeff at the Good Grape a run for his money. I kept the napkins, not to have a memento of the good memories, but because I was embarrassed to have the winemakers and winery owners, who had taken time out of their extremely busy day to talk with us, see what had been written there.

I would also like to apologize to all of the winery representatives and all of the other bloggers that were in attendance that witnessed my deplorable behavior. However, I think this deserves a moment to think about what went wrong.

First of all, it was just after lunch, one where we had been doing some wine tasting. I personally feel that it would be insulting and inappropriate to spit at a lunch table (although I did not drink very much from any glass of any of the wines we had at Cuvaison). Anytime you do something after a meal, it needs to be engaging and interactive in some way. Instead we sat in a cool, dark, quiet place and were talked at. The only bit of the entire hour and a half that was interactive were the last fifteen minutes we were there, when I asked the winery representatives what they thought of social media and were they active. That spurred a discussion of what bloggers are looking for in winery engagement and a short instructional session where we explained to them that we do not expect 24 hour, 7 day-a-week engagement. That not only woke me up, but got me excited about being there.



There’s a lesson there: Know your audience. This was a group of people that loved the Internet, the ability to instantly access information and to share it, and used it regularly. The whole key to social media is interaction. As we were listening (or not) to these wineries, many of the people sitting there were expressing their displeasure on twitter.

Another issue that particularly bugged me, I had flown across the country to this conference so that I could do something that I could not do from New York, taste wine with my peers from around the country and discuss it with the winemakers. These wineries had a captive audience, a golden opportunity to show their wines (even if it was only ONE wine) in a controlled environment to a group of people who were excited by the prospect of tasting the wine and are going to then write about it for the world to see. Instead, I am now writing about how unfortunate it was to not have tasted the wine. It does not matter that some of the wines were going to be tasted at a tasting later in the day. In fact, during that tasting I used my time to taste other wines, having such a bad taste in my mouth from these wineries.

To be fair, the information we were heard from the wineries was somewhat interesting. Being able to compare and contrast practices amongst different wineries is certainly an interesting topic. However, to do so for such a long period of time and not have wine in front of us was a mistake. I think the discussion would have been fine if those of us that already had a decent understanding of winery management could have focused our energies on a wine from each of the wineries.

Live and learn. Always take an opportunity to interact with your audience.


(Photos thanks to Megan Kenney and Amy Corron-Power)

Comments (36)

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Denise in Austin's avatar

Denise in Austin · 818 weeks ago

Good info...thanks for sharing. (And is someone in the photo really wearing a TAB photo...whoa...that brings back memories from a LONG TIME AGO.)
1 reply · active 818 weeks ago
Man, this post is a nice piece of evidence on the side of people like Parker and Dias-Blue that bloggers are just out for free drinks. Wow.
2 replies · active 818 weeks ago
If you meant to convey something different, you didn't. As I said, it comes across as exactly what the anti-bloggers say about wine bloggers. I don't hold that opinion about wine bloggers which is exactly why I commented. I understand you were frustrated and antsy, but lines like "After about twenty minutes it became obvious to us ...we were not going to taste any wine." Ellipses intentional to convey how it will be read.

I do have a wine blog. I pay for everything I taste.
1 reply · active less than 1 minute ago
For anyone who makes comments about evidence for anti-bloggers are welcome at any time see all of my receipts and cancelled checks for all of the so-called FREE wine I drink to report on. And further more, to any critic of winebloggers, if they have ever been to any professional industry gatherings/conferences - say for winery or grapegrowers associations which are strictly for wineries, vineyards and their associates, then they would know that the wine being poured is just as "generous" at these events. The amount of wine poured at the bloggers conference wasn't any more than any of the professional industry conference I have been to. I mean - - duhhh - it is the wine business, you know. What are these wineries suppose to pour for us - - Kool-Aid? To be surprised to see wine being poured generously at any wine-related event is just plain ridiculous or naive.
1 reply · active 818 weeks ago
Reading this post, I don't take it as a diatribe or a "whoa is me, I didn't get any wine" whine.

I take it for what it is - a damn good insight by a PR guy who witnessed Staglin commit PR suicide by not pouring any wine for a room full of wine writers. EVERY OTHER WINERY involved in the WBC panel discussions poured their wine. Except Staglin. I hope they learn from that mistake.
1 reply · active 817 weeks ago
mattortman's avatar

mattortman · 818 weeks ago

This is good feedback for the wineries, who are used to telling stories to media outlets that run feature articles on things like "the challenges of running a winery big and small." Most wine bloggers write about wine, how much they liked it and how it was experienced. The focus is primarily how good is the wine, and where was it enjoyed.

As a winery (with no connections to the wineries involved,) I hope you don't hold a long term negative grudge towards the wineries at the talk. The day was likely organized by the Growers Association which picked the topics, and asked for wineries to sign up for the opportunity to speak/present. They may not have had a choice as to what topic they would talk about. Should you have had the opportunity to try wines, I'd say yes definitely. Who was responsible for you not getting to taste wines, I can't say. I can say that most marketing folks at wineries would have wanted you to try their wines, especially if they had a representative there to explain them. One or more of the people talking probably wanted to show you their wines, but the decision was out of their hands (or they thought, once I get to meet these bloggers I'll have better opportunity to engage in discussion at my tasting table later that day.) Just food for thought, as I don't like hearing that anyone has bad feelings about any winery.

Bottom line is your point about knowing the target market is right on. Wine bloggers write about wine. The topic presented would have been better presented to individuals planning to (or someday hoping to) start up a winery. Missed opportunity for sure.

As far as wine bloggers being in it for free wine, I don't believe that to be true in most if not all cases. Bloggers legitimacy comes from a history of reviewing wines. You can't simply say I'm a wine blogger and request samples from a winery. A winery that gets such a request would only need to go on the blog to see the history of reviews. You don't become an unsolicited sample receiving blogger out of thin air, it takes a history of reviews. Reviews that were of wine purchased by the blogger.
2 replies · active 817 weeks ago
Enjoyed the post. Maybe the winery should have known their audience better. Perhaps the audience should have shown better professionalism. A lesson learned by all hopefully.
1 reply · active 817 weeks ago
Interesting anyone would point to this as evidence that all bloggers want is "free wine." I would have enjoyed a tour of the vineyard, a tour of the winery, anything that would give me something to write about. It's as if I went to a football stadium and was given a lecture about the difficulties in maintaining a good team when there are salary caps. I can READ about that anywhere, and don't need to BE at the stadium to have that information. I'd be at the stadium to see a GAME. Just as I would expect a winery to showcase ITS product when I visited a vineyard or winery.

By the way, we did get the same sort of pushback from traditional sports writers when we started a sports blog. Accused of being there to get "free tickets" even though we had season passes, even though we donated to the foundation, the alumni association, promoted the team on our own dime. Those "bloggers" who somehow buy into the idea that accepting wine to review makes you unethical, need to look at the traditional wine journalists -- they get the same perks. Is wine somehow different because it contains alcohol?

Plenty of us buy wine and receive samples-- just like traditional writers do. It's about ACCESS to the industry we cover. This particular event didn't really give us any more access than if they'd held it in a conference room at The Flamingo. We were told at the outset that each visit would give us access to four wineries and their wines. This one did not. While I found the information interesting, because I'm an info junkie, it wasn't the best use of either the wineries, or our, time.

And speaking about "paying for everything we taste." Flights to Wine Country = $650. Rental Car = $500. Hotels = $750 (for 6 days) Conference = $170 (for two of us). We buy wine and review it when we are at home. Sometimes we receive samples. But when we attend a conference about wine, it's certainly not unrealistic to expect that 4 wineries might want to introduce their wines to writers who plan to write about them. As Rob said, it was a missed opportunity. As a guy working in PR to promote wineries, I think he probably knows what he's talking about.
The point of bringing a lot of people who write about wine online and who have paid to visit wineries is to do something that they couldn't do in the comfort of their own homes.

Like taste wine. Like see some specific process demonstrated. Like learn specifics about the wines from the winery while you taste them. Lecturing people--speaking as a professional educator--for over an hour in a dimly-lit room about something they could easily read for themselves is at best daft, and at worst, incompetent.

Ultimately, it's the wine that differentiates one winery from another. Not lots of talking heads and hand-waving.
1 reply · active 817 weeks ago
This is good feedback for the wineries, who are used to telling stories to media outlets that run feature articles on things like "the challenges of running a winery big and small." Most wine bloggers write about wine, how much they liked it and how it was experienced. The focus is primarily how good is the wine, and where was it enjoyed.
My behavior wasn't so great either, heck I even cheated at tic-tac-toe (see above). Two important things to remember: they gave us their time, and they were really under no obligation to pour wine for us - but I agree completely that they lost a golden opportunity. Many of the points made during the presentation (which was really a cool idea) could have been punctuated by serving the wine related to the point.
2 replies · active 817 weeks ago
Where did the rest of my comment go, oh no! The blame may fall more squarely on the Trade Association, who likely asked wineries to sign up for topics they created. The Trade association is very used to selling lifestyle storylines and topics for feature articles in traditional print media. The wineries marketing folks likely would have wanted to have them pour their wines for a captive audience of wine bloggers, they'd be fools not to.

Someone along the line must have worried that people would be tasting wine all day, and might find themselves beyond their limit by the time the tasting rolls around later. That's also a poor assumption that the attendees are not professional enough tasters to know how to taste within limits (i.e. spit when appropriate.)

So yes, presentation was to the wrong audience, and the decision not to pour were both bad choices. Who's to blame, I don't know. But I'd guess that one or more winery hoped that by meeting everyone face to face they'd have a great opportunity to engage in discussion about their wines at the tasting later. So I hate to hear that you have a bad impression of all the wineries for someone else's mistake.
Ships In the Night!
Rob, Great write-up and glad to hear your honest apology, and opinion on what went awry on Bus #4. I think you summed it all up very well, no finger pointing, just missed opportunity.
What is the most compelling to me is the interaction between the wineries & bloggers, and these wild times in the world of social media. What seems to be missing is any historical reference of what a good transparent social media presence will provide...What is the ROI? However, no one will disagree that having an online outlet, write-up, or presence will assist in market expansion and brand propulsion.
So yes, I agree, this was a horrible missed opportunity. As the interaction of blogger & Winery can be compared to speed-dating (as it was the night before). I should know I have long searched for the attention of bloggers, media, and press in my own right. I am amazed at how could any winery/vyd miss-out on the opportunity to court their audience in such an intimate setting?
But this is where it gets interesting:
I am not sure if the power of social media has helped erode the walls of esteemed brands (bear in mind that you used to have to buy their wine to review it and now they'll send you a few bottles for free) OR has social media and brand growth found a coinciding point where the ability and NEED for brand exposure is aligning with the outlet of a wine-blog population that is gaining power/reach/and readership.
I'd like to think it is the later and that there is no ego involved at all, but I did run in tot the occasional wine brand that stayed up on their pedestal...and that is not going to work for anyone. But the point is that we are all similar minded people with the same passion - and one-half makes the wine and the other-half disseminates this info. So to have both halves in one room as a captive audience - and to not discuss how we should all work together, and share the fruits of our labor " You Pour and we’ll tweet & Blog” this is just "ships in the night".
But i keep on saying how interesting it is - well from a Brand standpoint and in watching how blogs and wine brands and the internet have evolved in the past couple years - we have seen a shift, and the next one is at bay. Who would of thought 3 years ago, that bloggers would be getting wined & dined and carted all over Napa & Sonoma for practically free, as if they were almost diplomats?
It is time for all of us to reach across the aisle and embrace one another - where some bloggers may not now enology to a science, not all wine makers need to know how to write CSS and tweet from their phones. But as an understanding we can all help each other - and have a damn good time doing it.
For me this is just the tip of the iceberg and branding laws for an emerging media power are not set at all...with powerhouse media specialists and marketing firms joining the ranks to bolster online presence – this is all about to get real interesting. Transparency is the key word and man it’s gonna get exciting.
I’d like to connect with anyone else that has thoughts on how to manage brands in the age of social media- as I have started some works on this subject, and this is moving at the tweespeed.
As a winery I don't think there are many wine bloggers out there just looking for free wine. There is plenty of opportunity to find out the legitimacy of a blogger, you just need a computer and internet access. One look at the blog will tell you if they have a clear history of reviewing wine. It's hard for me to imagine a person asking wineries for samples without having a long history of writing about wine payed for with their own money.

Another note, we have never been solicited for samples from any blogger, legitimate or not. That said, I don't think there are a bunch of people going around asking for free wine and just writing some quick short notes. I think wineries find the bloggers on their own, and send samples to those they find to be of value.
At worst, I came from a neutral position. I know Ashley and followed her Tweet to here. Really though, I come from a very pro-blogger position. When I posted there, I defended bloggers and social media on RP's forum. Even from that position (but not from inside the box of the wine blogger community), I clearly read and re-read the general tone of the piece to be whining about not being served wine. I ran it by someone else, even less involved, and got the same response.

I find the defensiveness fascinating. Nowhere did I say that there was not a legitimate complaint - having a lecture right after a nice lunch is always the worst just as a minimum. But when your narrative transitions from we realized we weren't getting any wine to self-admittedly unprofessional antics, exactly what message do you think that communicates? They may have lost a golden opportunity, but you also lost one to communicate that you were professional and mature. Your actions appear to have communicated 'if we don't get what we want, we will act up.' Clearly you recognized part of that as you apologized.

You are communicators. I am an audience. Just relating back what you communicated.
1 reply · active 817 weeks ago
And I find it fascinating while the majority of the bloggers who are part of the cluster you have labeled as "defensive" so to speak, at least have legitimized themselves by linking their names to their comments, unlike yourself. I tend to put more authority and validity in those who aren't afraid to share their opinions without using anonymity, like yourself. So if you want to talk about "professional and mature"... Being professional and mature is not having to hide behind a cloak when expressing an opinion - - that is if you are really are sincere and truly believe in your opinion.
2 replies · active 817 weeks ago
Rob, Nice post! I can't imagine why they decided not to pour you guys wine. I am pretty sure they wont make that mistake again. Funny to see that even this post has generated so much controversy.
Cheers!
Rob, we are glad you had a chance to experience our jet-hand-dryers :) We pushed to get those in the tasting rooms as well, but were afraid the loud noise would be too much of an annoyance to other customers!

We created the blogger takeaway sheet just for the blogger talk with Jay, then we updated our website with the same information. And yes, rest assured that it was printed on 30% post consumer recycled paper!

Cheers and thanks for the review!
2 replies · active 817 weeks ago
Rob, forgive me, but my Google Reader had a stream from a now defunct "Winepost" and I sought out your blog when my Reader failed to turn up any new posts. Woops! Wrong subscription. Haha. Uh...

(All taken care of now.)

Anyway, came across this post and I think everyone pretty much summed up what I intended to comment, so I'll leave some empty space. First thought in my head? "Well, it's STAGLIN, which has plenty of lapdogs over at Spunktater, Advocate and Enthusiast to even have to 'bother' with up-and-coming wine writers." <---I do own one bottle, and it cost me over a hundred bones. You bet I'll share it with all the bloggers I know, and I'm pretty sure we will all find that it tastes just like every other $100 Napa Cab.

:)

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