Friday, March 6, 2009

Everyone is crazy on Argentina


It really is incredible how the everyday drinker latches onto a grape. In the US, Merlot had a good run (with plenty still on the shelves) and gave way to Pinot Noir after Sideways knocked over a few bottles. Now the grape of the moment: Malbec!

Even though I think this is a fad that will one day be replaced by another fad (although it may stick around… when are people going to leave White Zinfandel and Chardonnay?), there is one major difference: Malbec from Argentina is damn tasty.

There is a lot of wine flooding in from Argentina these days. In fact, Argentina is now the fourth largest importer of wine into the US, behind Italy, Australia, and France. However, more than half of that wine is bulk wine.

What is bulk wine? Let’s think about how wine in brought into the U.S. for a moment. When shipping overseas, most producers put their wines on very large tankers. They have to bottle the wines, put the appropriate labels on them (do not get me started on labeling laws), put them in boxes, and then deliver them to the appropriate port where a ship will take the wines on board and drop them off in a port in the U.S. where customs the opens the boxes and looks to make sure all importing laws are being upheld.

Have you ever lifted a box of wine? It is heavy, which adds cost in the shipping. Well, what if you decide to simply put all the wine into large plastic containers and bottle the wine wherever you decide to send it. That would save money on shipping and you can bring more wine in at the same time. The problem is that the wines almost never have the interest and the life that a bottled wine has. You can find bulk wine from every country, especially right now when producers are doing everything they can to keep prices down.

But, I digress. We are talking about the good stuff here and there is not much better than the Bodegas Salentein Reserve Malbec 2006 from the Uco Valley in Mendoza, Argentina. This wine was very good, with a beautiful deep velvety purple color. There was a very nice vibrant freshness in the wine when I stuck my nose in the glass, accented by ripe red fruits. The vibrancy continued in my mouth where I found some cherry, black raspberry and cranberry flavors. Towards the end of the finish there was some nice spicy richness to it.

I looked up what the experts said, and I found that Jay Miller at the Wine Advocate gave this wine an 89. Finally, a wine I can post on the 89 project! Michael Schachner at the Wine Enthusiast gave this wine a 90. Wine Spectator gave this wine a 75. I was confused because I did not think the wine publications posted anything that was given less than an 85. When I saw the notes it looked like the Wine Spectator received a few bad bottles when they were doing their review. A real shame, because I think this is a great wine. On wine-searcher.com I found this wine between $17 and $22.

Comments (9)

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Nice piece! I never really stopped to consider what "bulk wine" meant until I read this just know. Interesting.

That's a huge spread between WS and WE/WA- one of the biggest I've ever seen. I always enjoy tasting wines that have such differing opinions from professional raters. It sounds like you'd go closer to 89/90 judging from your review.

I just had a look at the Spectator review and it sure does sound like they got a flawed bottle. They probably should have withheld reviewing the wine if they smelled "stubbornly funky rotten eggs"!
1 reply · active 839 weeks ago
Thanks for the comment!

Yeah, Bulk wine is an interesting beast, especially today when there is so much bulk wine coming into the US to keep costs of the wine down. I need to go back and look at the figures, but I think there is still more bottled wine coming into the US than bulk wine.

You can only call it as you see it, and I think Wine Spectator did the right thing by making a note that the wine was flawed.

If I were rating the wine (and I make no claims that I am experienced enough at this point to actually pinpoint a number value for a wine), I would definitely place it on the 90 side. I received the wine as a sample from the importer, but it was so good I think I might go buy the wine in a store.
Shawn McCreary's avatar

Shawn McCreary · 839 weeks ago

Just had to say: I HATE Merlot... It's too heavy and dry. I'm so glad the movie Sideways dissed it majorly. LOL So, someone told me that white zin isn't even technically a "wine." They claim it's just a fru-fru creation that winery's realized women loved. Is this true?

I'm much more of a Riesling and Pinot Grigio fan myself, though I won't turn down a glass of Chardonnay either. I'm a big fan of white... not so much of reds; I'm just a fag that way I guess. LOL I'll keep an eye out for these Argentinian wines though.
2 replies · active 838 weeks ago
Ha, thanks for the comment Shawn.

I think I could find a merlot that you would love. From my wine tasting I have learned that there is no grape in the world that one cannot use to make a good wine from (even if most of the wine made from the grape is plonk!). You just have to stay open minded enough to keep trying them, and remember the wines that you loved! It doesn't do you any good to love the wine and not remember what brand it is!

Try a Torrontes from Argentina. Many are crisp and light. Pretty much on the same line as Riesling and Pinot Grigio.
eekkk! I don't know about those torrontes, some of them are too floral on the nose AND palate. Try a p.g./ torrontes blend. We get a great Familia Zuccardi blend here in the UK. As for the reds, I don't know what you're getting there but still think Chile is better.
James Molesworth's avatar

James Molesworth · 839 weeks ago

Just to clarify, Wine Spectator published reviews at all score points. We simply do not publish notes for wines rating below 85 points (though we do make some exceptions) only for space considerations. All reviews, with all complete notes, including reviews of hundreds of wines each issue cycle that do not make the magazine at all, are available via our on line database.
1 reply · active 839 weeks ago
Thanks for the clarification James! I really appreciate the comment. Are all/most wines, liked or disliked that are tasted at Wine Spectator uploaded to the website?
James Molesworth's avatar

James Molesworth · 839 weeks ago

Rob: Yes, the website has every official review. The magazine can only handle so much, space wise, so often reviews of lower scoring or smaller production wines go directly to the website database.
1 reply · active 838 weeks ago
I think that makes perfect sense.

Thanks!

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